NHL Renders – Guide

General information
Sands for renders
Background preparation
Two coat work
Three coat work
Protection
Good working practices
Render Diagnostics
Some recommended mixes

Render on cob
Render on wooden lath
Render on metal lath
Render on blocks
Rendering with a spray gun

The success of a render depends on ensuring good background preparation and suction control, the correct choice of a mortar and its application. Sample panels should always be carried out. The durability of a render depends on mortars that will adhere to the background, are able to breathe and resist harsh climatic conditions that can and do occur even in relatively benign climate zones. A good bond to the substrate and between all coats is essential to the soundness of the render structure. Bonding is both physical and mechanical:

To avoid potential de-bonding and cracking each coat should be not be richer in binder or thicker than the preceding one (thicker base coats are applicable on thin stipple/scratch coats).

Sands for renders.
In dubbing out, stipple coats and base coats the sands should be well graded, washed and free of clay/silt (particles below #200 mesh). Use sharp sands from #6 down to #200, with the bulk of the sand in the #16 down to #100. Fine sands or monogranular sands (bulk in 1 or 2 grades only) are to be avoided.

In finishing coats, finer sands, still well graded, can be used for smooth finishes (avoid overtrowling). Particular attention will have to be paid to finishing coats with fine sands to avoid high shrinkage due to the high amount of water that fine sands absorb. The use of a wooden float, energetically applied in small circular motions, will help. Floating with plastic floats is not suitable. Sponge floats can be used after the wooden float work is completed to achieve a particular texture in the finish. Curing will also be important. Small hairline shrinkage cracks can be healed if treated in time with a light water mist.

Note: the finer sand particles are the ones mostly responsible for color and therefore used for color rendition. If the fines denote presence of clay (particles below #200 mesh) the NHL binder quantity should be reduced (clays are also binders!). A wet sieving analysis is recommended to check clay / silt content.

Dubbing out:
On defaced surfaces or in areas with a large amount of damaged joints it will be necessary to apply a dubbing out coat to provide a level surface. In most cases this will be sufficient with mortar, however very deep joints or hollows should be pinned to reduce the mass of mortar. When a dubbing out coat is used, let it set sufficiently (8-10 hours) before scraping it and keying it. Apply the first coat after approx. 2 days (more if very deep recesses have been filled) and depending on weather conditions. Dubbing out should leave a relatively flat surface, keyed as necessary, on which to render.

Suction control:
If needed, apply sufficient water to reduce excessive suction, especially on bricks and porous stone. Old bricks often require more water than new ones. On many occasions this is done the day before, if necessary several times with the last damping just before application starts. Apply water starting at the top of the structure. Over saturation of the background will result in loss of bond. Never render backgrounds that have standing water on the surface. Always dampen preceding coats before applying next coat.

It should be noted that in the presence of different suction levels the degree of dampening will vary accordingly.

Smooth and light textured finishes:
Use finer well graded sands, #14 down to #200 mesh. Add just enough water to obtain required workability. The more water is added the higher the risk of shrinkage. When the mortar is firm enough, proceed to float up with a cross-grained wood float. This
is the most important phase of the finishing work and should be done diligently. Together with good curing and protection it is vital in obtaining a good finish.

Coarse finishes:
Use coarser sands if thick (rustic) granular finishes are required. The thickness of the coat depends on the final finish required. Some of these finishes, especially the ones requiring special skills such as cottage, scraped and travertine effects, could also be done by using the same type of sand as smooth and light textured (floated) finishes. In these and tooled renderings (patterned), if initial shrinkage takes place, lightly dampen the surface and re-float the area during the first day or two. Tooling is normally applied when the render is 5-7 days old.

First coat:
Has to provide sufficient bonding. Stipple or spatterdash can be used on all backgrounds, but especially on impervious and smooth background. Leave these coats rough to provide a key. Use richer mix (1:1.5 preferably). The normal thickness is between 1/8″-1/4″. On soft or weak background use 1:2 or 2:5. Successive coats must be weaker than this coat. The thickness of the first coat depends on the nature of the background and the overall thickness required of the render.

A laid on scratch coat can be used on old bricks or surfaces providing a good key (greater care is required in application to ensure good bonding with the background). It will be scoured back with a cross grained wood float and keyed (crisscross keying pattern preferred) once initial stiffening has taken place.

Second coat (straightening):
To be applied 2 days (or more, depending on weather conditions) after completion of first coat. Its strength should be less than the first coat. Thickness will vary according to the overall thickness required but it is normally between 1/2″-5/8″. It must not be over 3/4″ thick. If this is required it should be done in successive coats each not exceeding 3/4″. The thicker the intermediate coats, the longer the waiting time before each subsequent application.

Ensuring a level surface:
To achieve a uniform and level surface fix vertical timber battens or dab’s on the wall at 6-8 feet intervals. If the wall is uneven use spacers and check that battens are straight with a plumb level. Fill out to screeds, if necessary in layers. Screed off excess mortar between battens with a wooden straightedge spanning between the battens. When battens are taken down, fill in strips with the same mortar.

An alternative is to make running screeds 4″ wide at regular intervals.

Scour back and key as usual after initial setting. Check for shrinkage during the first 2 days and, if necessary, lightly dampen the relevant area, tighten back and re-key. In case of intermediate coats this would apply to each coat. Do not apply finishing coat until undercoat is adequately hardened.

Early exposure to rain will cause some moisture absorption in the surface of a fresh render. If frost occurs, there might be damage. The figures given above refer, therefore, to a render that has not been subject to water  penetration in its early life.

The preferred form of protection is burlap covers that, with re-damping, will also contribute to curing the mortar. Burlap covers are essential to protect against frost. Plastic sheeting is effective against rain but should be kept clear of fresh work. If too tight it will generate condensation leading to unsightly staining. It will not protect against frost. Frost protection should be provided even if frost is not occurring at the moment of finishing the day’s work but is forecast during the early days of a mortar. Work should not start in frost conditions or when frost is forecast or with temperatures below 40F. In working with NHL 2 or in rendering with fine finishing coats, this should be 45F. Protection from the quick drying effects of wind or direct strong sun should be provided by using shading sheets on scaffolding.

Good working practices
In this document we have already discussed items such as background preparation, suction control, detailing, keying, protection and curing. A good and durable result depends mainly on these factors, the correct mortar mix, sand, dosages and workmanship. One item not to be overlooked is scaffolding. Where scaffolding is being used make sure that the scaffolding has adequate clearance from the face of the wall to allow application, avoiding unsightly lift lines. Scaffolding should project past all areas to be rendered to allow for protection of the new work against direct rainfall. Generally scaffolding should be capable of carrying the protective screens necessary to shade the work and prevent rapid uncontrolled drying and any covers needed to protect against frost.